Plaster and lath walls old house4/11/2024 Easier, but I can see the possibility of truly unforeseen issues with zero air movement in the walls.if there ever was a leak the entire structure could quickly degrade. Have closed cell? expanded foam shot into the wall cavities. This house has oak flooring over 1X12 subfloor but as stated, the joists are now insulated vapor barrier very carefully sealed against air leakage.Ģ. Remove the lathe and plaster, install vapor barrier/insulation in the wall and reinstall with sheetrock (expensive solution as the baseboard will need replaced to match (good luck with that) as well as the shoe. So the question I have is "do you have any suggestions for remediation?" I can ONLY think of two, but have no knowledge of any unintended consequences I might create in doing either one:ġ. Make something more efficient and cause more harm than good. Hope this helps others and thanks if anyone has any ideas.Īs my title states, the old timers knew things that we don't or don't take into account any longer. I am trying NOT to have to remove the asbestos siding (it is over 1x12 yellow pine at 45 degrees) for obvious reasons. I am having the mold tested to determine how dangerous a variety it is. Currently I am thinking that I need to remove all plaster on EAST and SE corners and insulate with vapor barrier facing out and replace the plaster with sheetrock. Meanwhile, if anyone has any suggestions as to the least expensive Long term repair, I would love to hear it. So, for those of you involved with uninsulated, non-vapor barrier walls in areas of high humidity in older homes, I suggest that any remodel and update consider the implications of a vapor barrier (latex paint) being added to the interior of the structure and that the unintended consequences be resolved before you begin a remodel. The fact that permeation of "fresh air" has been limited and the walls "sealed by paint" this house can not longer perform as designed. Then in the afternoon the walls and rooms cool, condensing that extra moisture on the INSIDE of the wall, not visible or wet to the touch, but slightly moist. This allows MORE moisture to be taken into the cavity and the air in the rooms (to maintain the ambient humidity as per physics). Latex is a vapor barrier apparently and on the wrong side of the wall! Every morning the sun hits the east and SE wall and heats it. Again, this house never had any mold before latex paint and sealing the subfloor/attic from air movement. Remediate, repaint and begin using AC.įast forward 10 years, increasing the attic insulation, replacing more old awning windows, and insulating/vapor barrier sealing the crawl space and insulating attic and sealing top plates etc.suddenly the EAST side and SE corner interior walls of the house grow mold in the winter (interior wall surfaces). This house NEVER had mold before it was painted with latex. I decided NOT to use my air conditioning as I work in the heat and humidity until about 2 years after painting I moved the refrigerator and found black mold. less the heater which though worked, was decommissioned to eliminate the roof break through when a metal roof was installed.Ī full remodel ensued upon purchase and I painted the entirety with latex paint after plaster repair and texture. Believe it or not the system is still in excellent shape. Then it was upgraded to a mobile home style oil furnace with AC in the 1970's. Originally this house had ONLY oil heater and no air conditioner. Eventually the walls had been painted however painted with what I would call "chalk paint", it was not oil based and not latex or acrylic and highly "breathable". The Plaster had been dyed for the wall colors. There was (and still is) no insulation in the walls, asbestos siding. When I purchased my home in FL it was 12 inch wide X 1 ft X 12 ft "sheetrock" style lathe with plaster interior. I have discovered a very interesting issue with lathe and plaster walls and mold in Florida. The old timers knew a lot more than we understand today.
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